Before there was a drugstore, there was a soap pot. Every working household in 18th-century America made its own soap from saved cooking fat, wood ash leached for lye, and a long boil over an outdoor fire. The same was true in medieval Europe, in Crusader-era Aleppo, and in the Persian apothecary tradition that taught both. Soap-making was the original homestead apothecary skill — and the line of practice runs unbroken from Al-Razi's 9th-century Baghdad treatises through Colonial Williamsburg to a working farm in Myakka City, Florida, where Jen Keel renders her own tallow and saves her own honey and cures every bar twenty-eight days. Here is the history of that lineage, and what it means to rebuild it on purpose in 2026.
Al-Razi (Rhazes), 854–925 CE — soap as recorded medicine
The earliest detailed written recipes for soap in the Islamic medical tradition are attributed to Abu Bakr Muhammad ibn Zakariya al-Razi, the Persian polymath known in Latin as Rhazes. Working in Baghdad and Rey in the 9th and 10th centuries CE, al-Razi compiled medical encyclopedias that catalogued not only treatment of disease but the preparation of every salve, ointment, and cleansing agent used in the apothecary.
Al-Razi's writings describe soap made from olive oil and ash-derived alkali — the same fundamental chemistry still used by Pretty Farm Girl today, just with different fats. He distinguished hard soap from soft soap, writing soap from cooking soap, and medicinal soap from common soap. Manfred Ullmann's authoritative survey of Islamic medicine (Edinburgh University Press, 1978; Wellcome Collection holds the standard reference catalog record) traces the lineage from al-Razi forward into the European Crusader-era soap traditions of Aleppo and Castile.
What is striking about al-Razi's recipes, read with modern eyes, is how little has changed. The principle is fat plus alkali plus time. The fat can be tallow or olive oil or whatever else is available. The alkali historically came from wood ash, now comes from purified sodium hydroxide. The time is the cure — and 9th-century apothecaries already knew that the bar needed weeks to settle before it was good for skin.
Aleppo, Castile, and the medieval European soap-belt
The soap traditions of the medieval Mediterranean — Aleppo (Syria), Nabulsi (Palestine), Castile (Spain) — were direct inheritors of the al-Razi lineage. Crusaders carried Aleppo soap back to Western Europe in the 12th and 13th centuries, where it became the prestige bath product of the European nobility. Castile soap (named for the region of central Spain that perfected the olive-oil-based recipe) became the European default for fine soap by the 15th century.
The pattern across all these traditions was the same: soap was made by specialists in cities and ports, but was also made by households in the countryside using whatever was on hand. Urban Aleppo soap was olive oil and laurel oil. Rural household soap was animal fat and ash lye. The chemistry was identical; only the inputs varied with what the local economy produced.
When European settlers crossed the Atlantic to the Americas, they brought the rural household soap-making tradition with them. They did not bring Aleppo soap-making — that required infrastructure they did not have. They brought the soap pot and the knowledge of how to render fat and leach ash, and they used what the new continent gave them: saved cooking grease, deer tallow, hog lard, and the ash from every winter fire.
Colonial America — the soap pot in every yard
The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation's apothecary archive documents in detail what 18th-century American household soap-making looked like. The fat came from the family's own slaughter or from saved cooking grease — which is why frying-pan grease was treated as a valuable resource and stored in jars. The ash came from the family's hearth, leached through a barrel of straw and water to produce a brown alkaline liquid called "black lye" or "potash lye."
Soap-making was a once-or-twice-a-year event. The fat and lye were boiled together over a fire in a large iron kettle (the "soap kettle") for hours until the mixture reached the right consistency. The resulting soap was a soft, brown, paste-like substance that families used for laundry, dishes, and personal washing — though the elite preferred imported Castile soap for the face.
The Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography survey of domestic chemistry in early American households documents how widespread this practice was. The 1791 Federal census of manufactures (Library of Congress digitized records) lists soap-makers as a distinct trade, but census enumerators were also clear that household production vastly exceeded commercial production. Almost every farm in the new republic made its own soap.
Marietta and Arthur Ellis — the historian-craftsmen
The 20th-century revival of interest in Colonial-era domestic chemistry owes much to a generation of museum craftsmen and historians who reconstructed the practices from primary sources. The work of Marietta and Arthur W. Ellis — soap-makers and historians associated with several Colonial-era living history sites — is among the most-cited reference material for cold-process soap as it was actually practiced in 18th-century America.
The Ellis monographs, along with Colonial Williamsburg's apothecary research and the American Cleaning Institute's archive on the history of soaps and detergents, form the documentary backbone of the modern handmade-soap revival. When a 21st-century homesteader picks up cold-process soap-making, they are working from a body of recovered knowledge that runs through these mid-20th-century historians back to primary sources from al-Razi forward.
What is preserved in this lineage is not just the chemistry — modern industrial soap-makers know the chemistry better than anyone. What is preserved is the practice: the sense that soap is something a household can make from its own resources, that the supply chain can be local, that the cure time matters, and that the product belongs in the apothecary alongside the salves and the lip butters and the herbal infusions.
How industrialization broke the home soap tradition
In the second half of the 19th century, two things happened that ended the household-soap tradition for most Americans. First, the rise of industrial soap factories — Procter & Gamble (founded 1837), Lever Brothers (1885), and dozens of regional manufacturers — made factory soap cheap enough that home production no longer made economic sense. Second, the 1860s introduction of purified, granulated sodium hydroxide replaced the imprecise wood-ash lye that had made household soap-making both possible and dangerous.
By 1900, urban American households almost universally bought soap. Rural households held on to the practice longer — the soap pot survived in Appalachia and the rural South into the 1950s — but it was a fading skill. The last generation of women who routinely made household soap as a matter of course was the WWII home-front generation. By the 1970s, household soap-making had become a hobby rather than a domestic necessity.
The American Cleaning Institute archive on the history of soaps and detergents documents this transition. What it does not capture is the cultural loss: with the soap pot went the sense that the homestead was its own apothecary — that the products on a family's skin were the products the family made.
The 1990s–2000s cold-process revival
The modern cold-process soap-making movement traces to the 1990s, when a combination of homesteading-revival publications (the Foxfire books, Mother Earth News), the early internet's ability to share recipes among hobbyists, and a small but dedicated set of natural-soap pioneers brought the technique back. By the early 2000s, cold-process soap-making was a thriving small-scale craft with thousands of practitioners.
The 2010s brought it into the broader natural-skincare movement. Etsy and small-batch DTC retail made it economically viable to make handmade soap as a livelihood rather than just a hobby. Instagram amplified the visual and narrative appeal of the soap pot, the cure rack, the wrapped-in-twine bar.
By the time Jen Keel started Pretty Farm Girl in 2017, she was joining a movement that was already well-developed — but she pushed it further than most by integrating the soap-making with the rest of the homestead. The goats produce the milk; the bees produce the honey and the wax; the cattle (in some seasons) produce the tallow. The soap pot is not a hobby skill bolted onto a separate life. It is the apothecary node of a working Florida farm.
What cold-process actually looks like on a working farm
A typical Pretty Farm Girl batch starts with grass-fed beef tallow rendered slow and clean, weighed to the gram with the lye-water and fresh goat milk from that day's milking. The lye is dissolved into the cold goat milk (often partially frozen, to prevent the protein from scorching as the lye dissolves and heats). The tallow is melted only to liquid — never boiled. The two are combined and emulsified by hand to the moment the batter holds its shape (the "trace").
The batter is poured into wood-and-silicone log molds, covered to retain the saponification heat, and left for 24 hours. The next day the loaves are unmolded and hand-cut into bars; edges are bevelled by hand, never machine-stamped. Each bar then sits on an open wooden rack for at least 28 days while excess water evaporates and the soap crystals tighten.
The output is a bar that can sit in a shower and last twice as long as a hot-process commercial bar — because the crystalline structure has had time to develop, because the glycerin generated during saponification stayed in the bar, and because no industrial shortcut weakened any part of the chemistry. This is what Al-Razi described in 9th-century Baghdad. This is what a 1791 Pennsylvania farm woman made over an outdoor fire. Same craft, modern materials, careful continuity.
Why this lineage matters in 2026
There is no shortage of soap in 2026. Mass-market body wash is everywhere; even the natural-skincare aisle is crowded with brands. The case for buying handmade cold-process tallow + goat-milk soap from a 75,000-customer Florida farm is not a chemistry case — it is a continuity case. It is a vote for a supply chain you can see, for a craft that almost died and has been deliberately rebuilt, and for an apothecary that operates at human scale.
The soap is also better. Cold-process tallow + goat-milk bars cured 28 days are gentler on reactive skin than sulfate body washes; they last longer; they leave less residue. The peer-reviewed dermatology evidence on natural cleansing bars (Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 2020 trial, PMC7158916) is consistent with what handmade-soap makers have been claiming for decades.
But the deeper case is cultural. When you buy a Pretty Farm Girl bar, you are participating in a lineage that runs from Al-Razi forward, from rural Pennsylvania to rural Florida, from the soap pot at the edge of the colonial yard to the cure rack in Jen Keel's barn. The soap is the same. The reason for making it is the same. Only the year on the calendar has changed.
Where to start with the homestead lineage
The bar that most directly evokes the colonial-soap tradition is the Soft + Gentle Buttermilk Bar — fragrance-free, simple, the kind of plain-and-honest formulation a 1791 farm woman would recognize. The Salt + Sea Bar adds sea salt for a slightly more textured cure, also in the historical lineage of seacoast soap-making.
If you want to taste the full breadth of the cold-process tradition, the Farmhouse Artisan Goat Milk + Tallow Soap Sampler bundles six bars across the Pretty Farm Girl line — a way to experience the full range of what tallow + goat milk + on-farm honey can do without committing to full-size bars of each.
And if you want the historical and biochemical context for the other half of the formulation, our companion article on the 5,000-year history of tallow in skincare picks up where this one leaves off.
References
- Manfred Ullmann — Islamic Medicine (Edinburgh University Press, 1978) — Wellcome Collection catalog record (accessed 2026-04-25)
- Colonial Williamsburg Apothecary — historical research and trade demonstrations — Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (accessed 2026-04-25)
- Domestic chemistry in early American households — historical survey — Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography / JSTOR (accessed 2026-04-25)
- Library of Congress — 1791 Federal census of manufactures — Library of Congress digitized records (accessed 2026-04-25)
- History of soap and detergents — American Cleaning Institute archive — American Cleaning Institute (accessed 2026-04-25)
- Lye safety and saponification chemistry — modern handbook reference — Journal of Chemical Education / ACS (accessed 2026-04-25)
Discover more from Pretty farm girl or browse the full Pretty farm girl collection.
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